This trip was one of the highlights of my summer, if not my entire paddling career. A seven day journey through the southern gulf islands, starting in Swartz Bay and ending in Ladysmith. The trip was organized by my friend Robert and was intended to be a weekend trip to Portland Island. Five of us made the trip and after the weekend was over, I stayed on and the others headed home.
This trip was done in true portable kayak style. We all walked onto the ferry at Tsawwassen with our gear and we all had collapsible kayaks, Robert and his friend Peter were in a double Klepper, Ted had a Klepper 1 and Chris had a home made Yostworks folder that was on her maiden voyage. And I, of course, had my usual, the Innova Sunny.

The Kleppers were assembled at the Ferry terminal and wheeled on board.

My gear. 7 days worth of food, 8 litres of fresh water, camping gear, kayak, paddles etc. I was asked "where's your kayak?" a few times. I probably had the lightest load, next to Chris with his Yostwerks.
Nice ferry ride over and a slightly confusing walk down to the government dock, but still fairly easy. And pretty soon I turned the pile above, into this:
For this trip I picked up a new aluminum folding cart from West Marine. Excellent $60 investment! Far sturdier than the similar cart I bought many blog posts ago that broke on its first outing.
Folded, the cart fits in the bow almost like it was made for it.
And then, I played the waiting game as my friends assembled and packed their boats. This was the first time out for the Yostwerks, and the first time is always a bit slower.
But soon enough we are all assembled, loaded up and ready to go. This was a first for a couple of us, as we were crossing a ferry route. Neither Robert nor I had ever done this before and the Swartz Bay terminal is notorious for having poor visibility of incoming ferries.
We headed towards Coal Island to cross over in between Pym Island and Knapp Island.
As you may notice, Chris's Yostwerks was still not quite complete, with a bit of duct tape holding the back end together. I got to paddle with Chris a number of times throughout the summer and it was a real treat to see the progress of his kayak, from this trip all the way up to him installing an electric bilge pump!
We dodged this ferry with no deaths or injuries, but this was just a baby...what about one of the big ones? I kept my vhf tuned to vessel traffic services to monitor the ferry arrivals and departures.
That big ferry at the dock could roar out of there at any time! And mow us down!
Well all that anxiety for nothing really, the crossing was nothing. We stopped in at Pym Island so the fellas could adjust seats.
The next bit of anxiety was crossing Shute Passage. I had read on West Coast Paddler of some recent rough water through here, and a capsize on the crossing. But it was nothing. We headed for the first of the campsites on Portland Island, Shell Beach.
I really loved this site. Very charming and it was empty. I've heard the beach gets a lot of ferry wash, and we were headed for Arbutus Point, which is supposedly the nicest of the three sites. I plan to come back here again and stay a night. It's really nothing to get here on a friday night after work.
Portland Island used to be called Princess Margaret Provincial Park but is now part of the Gulf Islands National Park. Back in the 60's they gave this island to her as a present. But I guess she had enough islands so she gave it back as a park a few years later.
After a few minutes here we saddled back up and headed for Arbutus Point via Princess Bay.
Arbutus Point. There were a few people here already, including an organized tour, but still plenty of room for all.
It was here that the first occurrence of a trend emerged. Even though I was in an inflatable and the slowest on the water, I was the first off the beach and had my boat up beside my campsite before anyone else had even unloaded. Slowest on water on fastest on land. I carried the Sunny up one handed and kept it beside my tent, while the others kept their boats by the beach and at the mercy of the raccoons!
Had a very pleasant first evening getting to know everyone. I'd paddled with Robert and Ted before but was meeting Chris and Peter for the first time.
One of the highlights of the trip was comparing notes on lightweight camping gear. Chris was going ultralight in preparation for a major hiking trip and had switched to using a hammock.
Robert's tent, an MEC Gemini. This is probably the tent I will get next.
Arbutus Point is a beautiful place. To be honest, I probably would have preferred Shell Beach, as it was empty and just charmed me completely, but I'm glad we stayed here, even though it was pretty busy.
I noticed a campsite that seemed like it was set up for a long stay. In front was a sign reading "Please Disturb the Biologists". It explained that there were two marine biology students from the University of Victoria in residence on the island for the summer, running experiments and doing marine biology stuff. It also said they'd be happy to vacate some space if need be, and to stop by and ask them about their work.
The next morning as I was waiting around for the rest of the gang to pack up their kayaks and get ready (as usual I was ready long before) a zodiac zipped up to the beach with what must have been the biologists. Two incredibly super cute young ladies in dry suits and rubber boots and overalls. So I go "you must be the marine biologists" and they're like "yup that would be us" and I'm all "more like...the marine 'cute'-ologists". Greatest pick up line ever!
Long story short we engaged in some delightfully witty banter and repartee on the beach while my companions struggled with their folding boats. Score another one for the inflatable!
Unfortunately, so distracted was I by the cute-ologists, that I forgot to unpack my camera from my dry bag. So no photos from the day's paddle! And what a paddle it was. We decided to head to Prevost Island for night 2. We dashed over to Saltspring, then along the coast to Beaver Point past Ruckle Park. Looking at the assortment of multi-coloured tents and gangs of tourists Robert remarked it looked like something like Ghengis Khan and his horde. Much as I've enjoyed Ruckle Park in the past I agreed. Would far rather be out kayak camping than car camping.
From Beaver Point we did a straight run for Point Liddell on Prevost Island. This is where it got dicey. The wind and waves were up, and this area, Swanson Channel, seems to be very confused, with waves coming from all directions. Last time I was out here it was the same. Normally on the trip I was in the number 2 position, Chris in the lead, then me, then the klepper double and single. But here I dropped to dead last, as I had to stop and bail a number of times. Got quite a bit of water over the side, enough that the handling of the kayak was noticably affected. Nothing dangerous, but slow and steady wins the race and I made it to the beach on Point Liddell well behind the others. By far the roughest waters I've taken the Sunny through.
Leaving Point Liddell we headed up the west side of Prevost, and wound up catching a nice 2 knot current through the Acland Islands. We also had the wind at our back, which got Robert thinking. He demanded I hand over the blue tarp I had behind my seat. We were going sailing!

We rafted up three kayaks together, the Klepper double on one side, me in the middle and Chris and the Yostwerks on the end. I had rope handy in the Sunny and we tied the tarp off to the paddles and made a sail.

Now I was really regretting not having my camera handy. But I remembered I had my cell phone! With a camera in it! So I pulled it out. And as I turned it on I got a message from my good friend Josh in Calgary. Turns out he was on Vancouver Island with his girlfriend Kira! So while on the water and under sail I gave him a call and started making plans to meet up after the trip.


We wound up sailing about three miles total. A very unique and fun experience! We were passed by a large sailboat and I could tell how jealous the skipper was. She had paid all that money for the sailboat and here we had the same experience with an inflatable and a dollar store blue tarp!
Soon enough we arrived at James Bay and we grabbed the campsites on the point, as the sky was looking a bit like it wanted to rain.
It did wind up raining a bit but it was no bother. I had brought along a tarp. My experience camping with the Helios 1 really taught me something about going light. I had one of the lightest loads of the group, but I had everything we needed, from a rain tarp to the blue tarp for the sail to an extra pump for filling up the sponsons on the Kleppers.
We had a bit of rain through the night but all stayed warm and dry. And the next morning was brilliant sunshine.
This cruise ship was docked in Ganges Harbour. I learned from some sailors in James Bay that it was some kind of condo cruise ship. You paid a million or whatever for a room and got to live on the boat as it travelled from port to port. Sounds nice. Again, any sponsors out there who are keen to set me up, please write! Please!!!
The gang had plenty of time before their ferry so they went on a hike. I decided that since I was staying another night, I'd take a little kayak around the bay.
I caught up with them out Peile Point.
I discovered a nice little pocket beach along the shore.
And I ran into the gang again.
Pretty soon it was time for them to get going. I was a bit nervous about staying on and even considered heading back with them. But I calmed my jangly nerves and pressed on. I even selflessly offered to relieve my friends of their heavy water, so they wouldn't have to carry it back with them. I wound up with 10 litres total, 2 more than I had started with.
And there they go. Off to Long Harbour to catch the ferry. Leaving me all alone. Well not really. Just as soon as they set out people started coming in, wound up with 8 other people sharing the campsite. But they were all in groups with friends and stuff, and I only had my own miserable company. Sob.
Even the apples mocked me, for they looked ripe and delicious but left a foul and sour taste in my mouth, as it was not yet their season.
Well no, it's hard to be down in a place like this. In fact it was just the opposite. I felt happy, liberated and free. And that was a nice feeling.
And there go Robert, Ted, Peter and Chris on the ferry. Thanks for a wonderful time guys, can't wait to do it again.
Watched the bats and the stars for a bit and called it a night.
Next morning I woke to a howling wind, coming straight from the direction of where I was headed, Wallace Island. The radio indicated it would calm down, so I sat down to wait it out. By about 10:30, it was calm enough to set out.
My pile of gear. I brought the bear barrel with me, not so much for bears because they don't tend to make it to the gulf islands, but as protection against raccoons. Of which there are many!
Ready to load up and head out.
Crossing Captain's Passage.
And over to Saltspring Island. From here, a crawl up the coast to Wallace Island.
Potential lunch stop?
The yuppies on Saltspring Island gotta power their cappuccino makers and whatnot somehow!
An unexpected sandy beach ahead. This is Walker Hook on Saltspring.
This made for a nice little break in the paddle. I had never heard of it before.
The beach rose up to a large grassy plain...
And a bunch of cows.
After a few minutes rest I set out again. And by now I was feeling a bit tired. By the time I reached Fernwood Point I was exhausted, and completely out of steam.
I had noticed the government dock at Fernwood from way back on Prevost, and I remembered there being a store and restaurant here. So I stopped in, tied off the kayak and headed up the road. Right off the dock is a coffee shop/bakery and I bought a sandwich, a diet coke and a large cookie. I scarfed these down and was right as rain, ready to cross over to Wallace.
Panther Point on Wallace Island.
Since I had already been to Conover Cove, and it was bound to be busy, I headed for the kayak campground at Chivers Point. Wallace Island has three campsites.
Chivers Point and the "No Campfires" sign. I didn't even use my candle lantern this trip.
I had heard from some kayakers just leaving that the day before every spot was taken at this site. Now, I was the only person here.
That night I was so exhausted that as soon as the sun went down I was out. The next morning I woke to howling winds, at least 30 knots and a churning sea. Based on the forecast, I wasn't going anywhere today. So I decided to explore the trails on the island.
This is an outcropping just off Cabin Bay. Cabin Bay is a great little campsite but about a 20 minute walk to the outhouse!
Wallace has a water source in the "Valley of the Sun" by the old truck. You have to treat it to drink it safely but I was good for water and didn't need any.
Many of the old resort cabins are still standing at Conover Cove.
A couple of Airis inflatable kayaks. I saw quite a few different inflatables among the yachties on this trip.
My campsite at Chivers Point. A bit of shelter from the wind, which wound up howling from sun up to sun down.
And so I just waited it out. As far as places to get windbound go, this is a pretty good one.
The raccoons were everywhere on this island. Digging for clams on the beach, fighting with each other...why a couple were even shamefully engaged in enthusiastic love-making on the beach! Thank goodness no children or ladies were about to witness this.
Next morning was much the same as the last. Howling 20-30 knot headwinds. What to do, stay another day or give it a go? I decided to give it a go, and head to Tent Island.
It was a wet ride. I was glad I brought a bailer.
Tent Island ahead. It's part of the Kuper Island Native Reserve, but they allow camping there. It's a reknowned party island for the Ladysmith crowd.
Well I got to Tent Island and I was a bit...disappointed. First thing to greet me as I got ashore was a big dead otter. The bay was filled with tents and people. It was Canada Day and there were more boats pulling in. And the worst thing of all was I was out of beer and smokes. I didn't want to hang around crowds having fun and drinking and feel so left out, so I got back in the kayak, faced down the wind, and kept paddling. I figured I would get up to Telegraph Harbour and visit the marina there.
The shoreline of Kuper was beautiful, I'd been by so many times by now in my Dad's boat but this was the first time I really saw it. But this was the toughest slog of a paddle I'd ever done. The wind was blowing hard and it was in my face the whole trip.
The hardest part of the paddle was into Telegraph Harbour. The wind was just howling through the cut and I was only making 1-2 km per hour, and I was thirsty and exhausted.
But I made it. And at the marina I bought a six pack of beer, a six pack of diet coke and a pack of smokes. And had some lunch. And felt a little more alive.
Heading back out I noticed an Aire Sea Tiger inflatable on this yacht. Nice looking kayak, would love to try one someday.
Everyone was out on their decks for the holiday and I got a lot of cheering on as I paddled up Thetis Island into the wind. I also got a few "you're going the wrong way!"s.
Found a nice little beach by a summer camp where I stopped for a rest and a much needed swim. I was exhausted, trying to find somewhere to camp and not having much luck. I decided to head back to tent island.
Along the way I detoured to check out a small, unnamed islet that looked inviting. I did not see any "no trespassing" or "keep out" signs so I landed.
There were a couple of "No Hunting" signs, and some signs of people being here (fire scars and broken glass...ugh) so I figured I would stay.
Next morning I was up early and ready for the last leg. The crossing to Ladysmith. It was still a bit rough out there but it looked okay, so I decided to go for it.
And two hours later, I pulled into Transfer Beach, where I called for a ride. Six nights, seven days camping out of the kayak and I survived. Worst wind and wave conditions I'd ever been in and the Sunny handled it well. A bit wet, but she did not let me down. My friend Robert, who also owns a Sunny as well as the Klepper, remarked that after seeing it in action he'd decided it was the boat he'd take on his next solo trip through the gulf islands.
From here I wound up hooking up with my friend Josh. Went swimming at Spider Lake, and then my father took us all out on the boat...back to Wallace Island so I could show them where I'd been. After that, I rolled my gear onto the ferry on onto a greyhound bus, and easily got home. A very enjoyable and very much needed break away. As always, can't wait to get back there.
